AN UNBIASED VIEW OF SAUCE CARTS

It is actually an emulsification—egg yolks and butter cut by with vinegar flavored with tarragon and shallots, by using a bite of black pepper. Think about it as a unfastened mayonnaise, necessitating only a lot of whisking and a thorough hand with the heat to learn. ... Apply the sauce to steaks or burgers, asparagus or salmon. — Sam Sifton, T